“Even more rarefied is MilkMade ice cream, which is available by subscription only, requiring an online application and a three-month commitment. The one-pint-a-month plan is $50 for three months; double your pints and pleasure for $90. This works out to a breathtaking $15 to $17 a pint. It is handmade in small batches, with cream from grass-fed cows and sustainably made ingredients from local producers, but still.

Then July’s flavors arrived at my door. There was extra virgin olive oil, which registered more as texture than flavor, striated with Mast Brothers dark chocolate, gooey as if freshly dribbled — a self-contained sundae.

And then there was strawberry shortcake. Impossibly creamy, studded with vibrant red slivers of strawberries (from Red Jacket Orchards, in the Finger Lakes) and hunks of dense buttery biscuits (from Scratchbread in Brooklyn). Oh, strawberry shortcake, where are you now? It is gone, and there will be no more.

Summer love can be so cruel.”

Not bad! We’ll take it.

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